It is still surrounded by a medieval wall, and is one of the best preserved of all the bastide towns. Known as the 'Acropolis of the Périgord', Domme was a key battleground in both the Hundred Years War and the Wars of Religion, and was used to imprison the Knights Templar in the 14th century. Domme sits 450 feet above the Dordogne and has famous panoramic views of the river.
You'll also get your first shot at a decent hill on the way up to Domme. Today you'll pass La Roque Gageac, an amazing town built into the side of a cliff beside the Dordogne, originally built as a prehistoric fort. Castelnaud and Beynac were always in opposition to each other, and although both belonged to both the French and the English at different times, they were never on the same side! You'll start by retracing your steps to the Castle of Castelnaud, which houses a museum of medieval warfare. The food here is very traditional - a superb introduction to Dordogne cuisine- and Pascal is the 6th generation of Malevilles to run the hotel. You can reach it by an absurdly steep path called the Basketmakers path - but not very quickly!Īt the Hostellerie Maleville you can meet the Maleville family. The castle was once the seat of a certain Richard the Lionheart and is well worth a look. You'll finish the day at Beynac, a picturesque village beside the Dordogne dominated by its castle set on a cliff 500 feet above. Baker was an extraordinary woman, as you'll discover - cabaret artiste, wartime spy for Charles de Gaulle, and the only woman to speak alongside Martin Luther King on the day of his famous 'I Have A Dream' speech. In the afternoon, you'll follow the Dordogne along quiet roads, passing the Châteaux of Beynac and Castelnaud, which face each other across the Dordogne, as well as the Château des Milandes, home of Josephine Baker. To atone, he built 3 churches, including the tiny St. Perhaps you're familiar with the story of King Henry II, the English king who carelessly asked some of his knights, when referring to the famous cleric Thomas Becket, "Will no one rid me of this meddlesome priest?" The knights followed his orders, and Henry was villified for Becket's death. Just before you reach Limeuil, you'll encounter little St. Limeuil is a beautiful bastide town, and the area where the rivers meet is a great place for a swim. Time to get on your bike! Today, you'll follow the Vézère to Limeuil, where it meets the Dordogne. It's rare that a 'national' musuem in France is not based in Paris, which is a clue about the importance of Les Eyzies in the world of pre-history. Nearby is one of the oldest sculptures in the world, a 20,000 year-old fish at the Abri de Poisson, and the Font de Gaume, site of some of the most important cave paintings in the world.Īnyone who has time should consider a visit to the National Museum of Prehistory. As well as the National Museum of Prehistory, Les Eyzies boasts the settlement of Cro Magnon, where the first example of homosapiens, or 'thinking man', was discovered. Les Eyzies is a small village of 900 people, but it styles itself as the 'Capital of Prehistory' - and with some justification. This delightful hotel sits on the banks of the River Beune, just upstream from where the Beune joins the Vézère. You'll stay at Le Moulin de la Beune, one of the highlights of the tour programme. However you decide to travel, arrive in the Dordogne at Les Eyzies on Saturday evening.